Portland Leather Goods: Using the best leather, Full-Grain, Top-Grain, and Nubuck (and Why It Matters for the Planet)
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Time to read 7 min
At Portland Leather Goods, we design and build bags meant to be loved hard, used often, repaired when needed, and handed down.
That’s why we choose real, high-grade leathers—full-grain, top-grain, and nubuck—from tanneries we know and trust, many of which are certified by Leather Working Group (LWG), the global benchmark for responsible leather manufacturing.
Below, we’ll demystify the leather grades you see on product pages, explain how reputable tannery certification works, and look honestly at leather’s environmental context compared with synthetics. We’ll also share what researchers are discovering about microplastics and nanoplastics—tiny particles that shed from synthetic “leathers” and fabrics and end up in our water, air, and bodies for years to come.
What “Real” Leather Really Means
“Real leather” isn’t one thing—it’s a spectrum that runs from the best (full-grain) down to composites and plastics marketed to sound like leather. Here’s how to read the label like a pro.
Full-Grain Leather: The Gold Standard of Strength and Character
Full-grain is the strongest, most natural cut of leather. It preserves the full grain—the dense, interwoven top layer of the hide—with all its natural fiber structure intact. That means:
Durability and tensile strength. Those densely packed top fibers resist abrasion and stretching better than any other cut.
Breathability and comfort. Natural pores and fiber channels allow moisture to move, so straps mold to you without getting clammy.
Patina. UV, oils, time, and miles build a deep, dimensional sheen that no factory finish can fake.
When you see the Portland Leather Goods stamp on a full-grain bag, that’s what you’re buying into: the most robust part of the hide, selected and cut by craftspeople who know where each panel belongs. We prioritize sourcing from LWG-audited partners, because strong leather should also come from strong environmental and social practices.
Top-Grain Leather: A Refined Workhorse
Top-grain starts from the same premium zone of the hide but is lightly sanded and finished for a more uniform surface. That light correction:
Softens and evens the face while keeping most of the strength you want.
Takes pigment and protective finishes beautifully, which helps with colorfastness and stain resistance.
Ages gracefully, especially when we keep the finish thin enough to let the leather breathe and break in.
We use top-grain when a smoother cosmetic is the goal—think color consistency across large panels—without walking away from the core strength you expect from a Portland bag.
Nubuck: Velvety Texture, Serious Backbone
Nubuck is top-grain that’s been finely buffed on the grain side to create a soft, suede-like surface. Unlike suede (which is made from the split, or inner layers), nubuck retains the strong top-grain fiber structure. That gives you:
A luxurious nap that burnishes with use, developing an elegant, lived-in polish.
Better strength than suede, because the backbone of the hide remains.
Beautiful color depth as the nap lays and lifts over time.
We love nubuck for bags and accessories that should look refined on day one and even better after a year of travel.
Why We Work With Leather Working Group (LWG) Tanneries
Leather Working Group is the most widely adopted audit program in our industry. Their Leather Manufacturer Standard evaluates tanneries across areas like environmental management, water and energy use, chemical management, waste handling, and traceability. Certification levels (Gold, Silver, Bronze) are awarded based on performance against the standard’s detailed criteria, and audits are renewed periodically to keep scores current. We prioritize LWG-audited partners—many at Gold and Silver levels—because third-party scrutiny matters.
A few reasons we think this matters to you:
Water stewardship and chemical management are central to LWG’s criteria, aligning with safer, modern tanning practices.
Traceability helps ensure the hides we buy are tracked through the supply chain.
Continuous improvement: Certifications are time-limited and re-audited, incentivizing progress rather than one-and-done plaques on the wall.
When we say “we work with many of LWG’s top tanneries,” that’s what we’re pointing to—audited performance.
Leather’s Place in the Environmental Conversation
Let’s address the big question straight on: Is leather a by-product? In mainstream global supply chains, yes—nearly all leather derives from animals primarily raised for meat or dairy; hides would otherwise be waste that must be landfilled or incinerated if not used. Using this material for long-lived goods turns would-be waste into durable products. That doesn’t mean leather is “impact-free,” but it does mean we’re not raising animals for bags.
At the same time, debate is healthy. Some advocates challenge the by-product framing and call for deeper visibility into land-use and climate impacts of livestock. We follow that discourse closely while focusing our own sphere of influence—selecting audited tanneries, designing for longevity and repairability, and building products you won’t need to replace every year.
Longevity is a climate strategy. A well-made leather bag that lasts for a decade (and can be refurbished) can displace several synthetic bags over the same period. The math gets better if the leather comes from audited tanneries and the product is used continually rather than cycled out for the next trend.
The Problem With Plastics and “Vegan Leather” (a.k.a. Plastic)
“Vegan leather” sounds wholesome, but most of what’s on the market today is plastic: PU, PVC, or similar polymer films on fabric. These materials can look convincingly leather-like, but their environmental story is complicated:
They shed microplastics and nanoplastics throughout life (especially with friction), which accumulate in water and air. U.S. federal researchers and agencies now document the persistence of plastic particles in ecosystems and the need to study their health effects.
They persist for decades to centuries. The U.S. EPA notes that plastic pollution is persistent and can take 100–1,000+ years to break down, depending on conditions.
They can emit vast numbers of particles in normal use. A National Institute of Standards and Technology study found that common consumer plastics release trillions of sub-100-nm nanoparticles per liter into water during typical use. Nanoplastic is smaller than microplastic and harder to filter out.
Textiles are also a major microplastic source. Studies show synthetic fabrics shed microfibers during wear and washing; some pass through wastewater systems and are now found from shorelines to alpine snow. That’s not distant theory—that’s our rivers and drinking water.
We’re not here to fear-monger—science is still mapping exposure and health impacts—but the directional signal is clear: less plastic, longer-lasting goods, and better material choices are good bets for people and planet. That’s why we double down on real leather, made well.
How We Source and Build at Portland Leather Goods
León, Guanajuato, Mexico is our manufacturing home for a reason: it’s a global leather craft hub with generational expertise. We pair that heritage with modern standards:
Material selection: We choose full-grain and top-grain hides for structure-critical panels and straps and use nubuck strategically where we want refined hand-feel with backbone.
LWG-audited tanneries: Many of our partners hold Gold or Silver ratings under the LWG Leather Manufacturer Standard, which assesses environmental management, chemical controls, water and energy use, waste, and traceability—audited and re-audited.
Design for repairability: Stitch lengths, edge treatments, and hardware choices are made with future refurbishing in mind.
Small-batch finishing: Hand-oiling, burnishing, and edge work that help your bag look better the longer you carry it.
When customers send us photos of their five-year-old totes looking cooler than the day they unboxed them, that’s our why.
Choosing Between Full-Grain, Top-Grain, and Nubuck
Think of these like different cuts of the same great ingredient—each with a distinct personality.
Choose full-grain when you want maximum strength, pronounced character marks, and a patina that chronicles every trip, coffee spill, and sunny day.
Choose top-grain when you prefer a smoother surface, a bit more color uniformity, and easier wipe-downs—still plenty durable for daily carry.
Choose nubuck when you love a velvety hand with hidden toughness. Expect it to polish where you touch it most, developing a refined, lived-in glow.
If you’re tough on gear or traveling constantly, you’ll probably love full-grain. If your style leans clean and modern, top-grain might be your everyday. If you want quietly luxurious texture, grab nubuck.
Real Leather vs. Synthetics: The Everyday Experience
Let’s get practical. Here’s how high-grade leather stacks up against synthetics in real life:
Aging: Full-grain, top-grain, and nubuck develop character; synthetics look “the same” until they crack or peel.
Repairability: Leather can be re-stitched, re-edged, re-conditioned. Most synthetics don’t take well to repair—replacing is more common.
Feel: Leather breathes and warms to you; synthetics can feel plasticky or clammy in heat.
Longevity: We see well-cared-for leather bags last a decade or more. Plastic-coated alternatives tend to fail at the coating.
End-of-life & shedding: Real leather fibers are natural; synthetics are plastic and can shed micro- and nanoplastics into the environment during use and washing, persisting for years.
A Note on Responsibility and Continuous Improvement
No material choice is impact-free. Leather requires chemicals, water, and energy to tan; that’s precisely why tannery auditing matters. LWG’s framework pushes the industry toward better chemical management, water systems, waste handling, and traceability—and because audits are time-bound, tanneries must maintain or improve performance to keep certification levels like Gold or Silver. We think that’s the right kind of pressure.
On the global stage, brands and NGOs are also working on deforestation-free leather initiatives to decouple hides from deforestation risk. We support that direction and keep raising our own sourcing bar year after year.
Care Tips That Maximize Longevity (and Minimize Waste)
A well-cared-for leather bag outlasts trends and helps keep waste out of landfills.
Condition sparingly. A light, high-quality conditioner every 6–12 months keeps fibers supple.
Avoid over-wetting. If soaked, stuff with paper and dry slowly away from heat.
Brush nubuck gently. A soft nubuck brush lifts the nap; avoid heavy, oily conditioners.
Store intelligently. Cool, dry place; avoid sealed plastic bags that trap moisture.
Repair, don’t replace. Stitch pops and edge wear are fixable—reach out and we’ll help.
Bottom Line
We believe in materials that respect your money, your time, and the places you explore. Full-grain, top-grain, and nubuck leather, sourced from LWG-audited tanneries and crafted in our León workshop, deliver the durability, beauty, and long-term value plastic look-alikes can’t match. And as research continues to reveal how persistent plastic particles are in our environment and our bodies, choosing fewer, better things feels less like a luxury and more like common sense.
When you carry Portland Leather Goods, you’re not just holding a bag—you’re holding a point of view: buy well, use often, repair when needed, and love it for a very long time.
Sources & Further Reading
Leather Working Group: Leather Manufacturer Standard and Standards & Certification explain the audit scope, criteria, and how Gold/Silver ratings are awarded and maintained.
Leather & livestock: Leather Naturally overview on leather’s by-product status in mainstream supply chains. Balanced by perspectives questioning this framing for fuller context.
Plastics, microplastics & nanoplastics: U.S. EPA pages summarize persistence and research priorities; Congressional Research Service provides policy-oriented synthesis; NIST study documents nanoparticle release from plastics; textile research details microfiber shedding.